Practical Design at a Realistic Price
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If box gutters overflow it can cause problems especially if the water gets inside the wall cavity. I used a cheap plastic rain-head with leaf guard and created an air-gap between it and the down-pipe pop above. I get clean water for my tank and if the down-pipe backs up it will not flood back into my gutter. I used a 100mm pop on the gutter to avoid leaf blockages. Once the downpipe and rainhead is painted to match the house it will not look so ugly. Note the pipes for my solar pool heating are next to this downpipe. I have painted them to avoid any brittleness caused by ultraviolet damage. When I finish the project I will put a cover over them to hide them from view.
If box gutters overf...
The steel frame of the new pool room requires a special epoxy paint system to avoid corrosion. Wherever the inorgainic zinc silicate coating on the posts and beams is compromised by welding it needs to be touched up with an epoxy zinc paint before the top coats can be applied. Respirator and goggles are recomended when applying epoxy paint. I used the wattyl Galvit 100 and 102 part A and B system. This also requires special thinners. The paint can is a 4 lite can but only contains 3 litres of paint so that the smaller part B containers contents (1 litre) can be added. The mixed paint must be used within a few hours so I mixed the two parts in the 3 to 1 ratio in a smaller pot so that I would not waste the entire can. This paint is exceptionally expensive but worth the money if you want a good result.
The steel frame of t...
The fully welded steel framing around the pool was put on in early 2012. The next step is to finish the painting. The GFC means I will wait another season before the roof goes on. Glazing the walls is scheduled for 2014.
The fully welded ste...
Enviroswim cell maintenance. I have had to remove the oxidising plates from the cell 4 times over the past 3 swimming seasons. I have been informed from the manufacturer that this is a result of my pool chemistry being out of balance, however I have been fairly careful with my water chemistry and see it more a problem of the product. It doesn't matter that much but I feel that it could be included in the maintenance manual as I have read of several other Enviroswim owners with a similar problem. It is fairly simple to dip the plates in a weak hydrocloric acid solution (about 1 to 10)which cleans them in about half an hour. Note I use goggles when I handle acid. The plates are shown soaking in the background (blue icecream container). I cut a plastic bottle of a similar diameter to the plates down to the correct size so that the entire active surface could be cleaned while keeping the lid out of the solution as I didn't want to damage the electric terminals. I sat the soaking container in an icecream container to act as a catchment tray for the excess acid as it foams and bubbles over the edges of the soaking container.  Other things to note in this picture are replacement rubber sealing rings for the canister. I used these as the originals had degraded and the ionising chamber was leaking no matter how hard I screwed it on. As my chamber is below pool level I have more constant pressure on the canister. Note the small spiky looking object just to the right of the enviroswim electrodes. This is one the original electrodes after I have unscrewed it from the chamber. After 3 years there was not much left of the electrodes but the system still continued to function even with the electrodes worn down to tiny nubs. I removed them at this point as the maintenance manual explains they must be removed before they fall off.
Enviroswim cell main...
Enviroswim electrode replacement. The ioniser means the pool is as close to fresh-water as any system. The Manufacturer stated the electrodes should last about 18 months. I ran my pool filter with the environswim active for about 6 months a year. I was running it for about 2 hours a day for a couple of the cooler months, abour 6 hours a day for the warm months and around 8 to 10 hours a day in the very hot weather. This was the minimum required to stop the pool going cloudy. All taken into account the 18 months time-frame seems like a reasonably accurate figure. I am however running my filter with the Enviroswim on for a little longer than I had expected from the product literature. This shot is of the replacement electrodes just before I screw them back into the ionising chamber. The replacement electrodes come fixed to stainless steel end bolts which were slightly shorter than the originals and the replacements came with two seating washers unlike the originals which only had one. It was a tight fit to include ever nut and washer (and there are plenty). I noticed the original nuts required a no 10 metric spanner to undo them and the replacements fitted a 7/16th spanner nicely. This slightly larger bolt diameter means that unlike the originals which just slid through the housing cap the replacements needed to be physically screws in and tapped a thread into the plastic as they did. This means a tighter fit and presumably is more watertight, but I will be curious to see how easy it is to remove in 3 years time as even the old one required a bit of force to extract it from the lid.
Enviroswim electrode...
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This Architect Designed Pool in Outer Metropolitan Adelaide was an Owner Builder Project

I drew the plans and provided much of the labor myself, providing a cost saving of around 50%
This Swimming Pool is situated on a hill with a 1 in 3 fall. The site is tiered and over 50 stairs have to be negotiated from the street. Due to the difficulty of site access all materials had to be carried in by hand. The site was also excavated by hand. Provision for a fully enclosed glazed structure around the pool complicated the build by imposing additional structural requirements.
I designed a concrete shell as this could be used as footings for the room over. The structural Engineer advised to found the pool on natural ground.  This advice meant that some structural savings could be made. Instead of having to use piers, a series of strip footings could be used to key the pool into the hillside.  By following this concept the design of the pool became what is known in the industry as a "split level pool." This means that the depth increases from side to side rather than end to end. This has the advantage of giving a fairly continuous depth swimming lane for the entire length of the pool.
There were serious space constraints due to the existing house and garden layout, and an existing sewer easement at the rear of the property that had to be avoided. The room over is still under construction. If you live in Adelaide and are thinking of putting in a pool or pool enclosure - email  I will make sure your pool suits your site and integrates into your garden. An architect designed pool is the difference between a suit off the rack or one tailor made..... and the best bit is that if you have your own plans you can shop around for the best price.  
 Pool Type:             Spray Concrete shell - half in ground                 Pool Fitout:         Tiled spa & spill-edge, swimjets
 Pool Finish:           Qpebble (blue) and tiles                                     Pool Coping:       500x500 Quantum stone (grey)
 Pool Size:            8.8m x 3.8m x 2.2 deep                                    Pool Room Size:  11m x4.9m plus entry plus breezway
CONSTRUCTION TIME-LINE                                                        
June 2008:                    Building Approval                                                        
November 2008:          Footings Poured                                              
March 2009:                 Shell form-work and Reinforcement                   
April 2009:                   Concrete Sprayed                                                
December 2009:          Filled
March 2010:                 Epoxy paint to enclosure over finished                                Back to pool home page